Selection of yarn colours, Photo: Matti Varga
The magical material: wool
The Amazigh tribes, traditionally shepherds, used wool as the most abundant raw material for crafting their carpets. But wool is more than just a practical choice for them—it is believed to have magical properties in their culture! It represents prosperity, purity, and ancient wisdom, acting as a bridge between humans and the forces of nature. Wool brings balance to the body and spirit, while also symbolizing unity among families and communities. Even today, wool remains the go-to material for carpets, while other fibers, like recycled yarn or fabric scraps, are used far less frequently (though you’ll still find them in some pieces like Boucherouite or Zindekh rugs).
Live wool, freshly sheared from the living sheep, is the secret behind the soft, fine, high-quality pile of the rugs. It's what gives them that special texture and makes them so valuable! The level of processing varies between weaving communities: some purchase ready-dyed yarns from the local market, while others work with machine-spun wool and dye it themselves. In traditional weaving communities, the wool undergoes the full journey—from raw fleece to finished piece—ensuring the most authentic results.
Ready to follow it’s adventure? Let’s dive in step by step!
The ritual of purification – Washing the wool
The journey of the wool begins with shearing the sheep, but before it reaches the loom, it undergoes a lengthy cleaning process. The purpose of washing is to cleanse the wool of foreign materials and plant residues, as well as to remove some of it’s natural grease, lanolin. Freshly sheared wool is first hand-sorted to remove larger impurities, then soaked in hot water and rinsed very thoroughly multiple times in cooler and cooler water. Finally, it is dried perfectly under the intense Moroccan sun.
Sheep before shearing
Washing the wool in the stream
Carding the wool, Photo: Matti Varga
Wool carding brush, Photo: Matti Varga
From threads to yarn – Wool teasing, carding & spinning
After the wool is dried it gets ‘teased’ and ‘picked’ to fluff up those wool locks. Then, it’s time for carding: this step separates all the tangled clumps of wool into a soft, airy web of individual fibers. For this, small pieces of wool are gently combed back and forth with two brush-like tools (closely resembling pet hair brushes), covered with pointed pins or teeth. After carding, the wool is light, soft, and ready for spinning.
The combed wool is then spun into yarn, traditionally using the simplest kind of walking spindle, although a small, foot-folding rocha is sometimes used in Morocco. The weaver spins the spindle with their right hand, which twists the bundle of fibers held in their left hand. This motion twists the fibers into a continuous yarn. The wooden disc at the bottom serves as a weight, providing momentum until enough finished yarn is wound onto the spindle shaft. The finished yarn is then arranged into a “motring,” or skein, and the dyeing then typically happens one motring at a time.
Nature’s rainbow – Dyeing wool the natural way
The method of dyeing wool yarns varies from one weaving team to another. In some villages, they still rely solely on plant-based dyes, using a variety of plant by-products such as pomegranate peels, walnut shells, or saffron petals to create vibrant colors. When combined with natural fixatives these plant dyes produce incredibly vivid and diverse shades. While traditional plant dyeing remains popular, synthetic options, particularly water-soluble acid dyes, have become widely used today as well.
The dyeing process is quite similar in both cases: to make the dye bath, water is boiled in a cauldron, then the chosen dye and additives are added. The pre-soaked wool is placed in the dye bath and simmered until it absorbs the color just right. Afterward, it's rinsed multiple times in cold water, thoroughly wrung out, and shaken to remove any excess. Finally, the wool is hung up to dry, soaking in the fresh air.
Naturally and chemically dyed wool yarns, Photo: Matti Varga
Yellow yarn created with natural dyes, Photo: Matti Varga
Wool cooking in the dye bath, Photo: Matti Varga
Fermentation dying
Fermenting colours – The secret of fermentation dyeing
Among the various dyeing techniques, there’s one that stands out: fermentation dyeing. In this method, fresh plants are soaked with wool and a mordant in water, then sealed in nylon and left to ferment under the sun – sometimes for weeks even! While fermentation does come with the downside of a distinct odor (which, luckily, can be completely washed out of the wool), its major advantage is its energy efficiency. Plus, it creates unique, one-of-a-kind shades that differ from the typical hues produced by traditional dyeing methods. One of the masters of fermentation dyeing among our weaving partners is Fatima — you can read her story here.
Join us for the next episode, where we’ll follow the weaving and knotting journey, as colourful stories come to life from the wool yarn!